Faith and Values: Monastery at foot of Mount Sinai still can inspire

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St. Catherine's Monastery is an Orthodox monastery on the Sinai peninsula at the foot of Mount Sinai in Egypt.

It is one of the oldest Christian monasteries in the world.

The Book of Exodus tells the story of the Israelites making a journey under Moses out of Egypt across the Red Sea through the Sinai desert to the Promised Land. It took 40 years.

We are told that Moses ascended a mountain in the desert, where he received the Ten Commandments. Where that mountain is, nobody knows. But massive Mount Horeb dominates the area (its highest peak is called Mount Sinai), and this has long been held to be Moses' mountain.

At its foot, Moses is supposed to have first experienced God in a burning bush.

"God called to him from within the bush, 'Moses! Moses!' And Moses said, 'Here I am.' 'Do not come any closer,' God said.

" 'Take off your sandals, for the place where you are standing is holy ground.' Then he said, 'I am the God of your father, the God of Abraham, the God of Isaac and the God of Jacob.' At this, Moses hid his face, because he was afraid to look at God."

Jews, Christians and Muslims revere Mount Horeb as the place where God handed down the law.

Christian hermits began to gather around this mount in the wilderness in the middle of the third century.

Many of them lived in caves or built small huts and spent their days in prayer and silence. Often, they were attacked and killed by the Bedouin tribes.

When St. Helena, mother of the Emperor Constantine, journeyed to the Holy Land in the early fourth century, she ordered a chapel to be built there. It soon became a popular place of pilgrimage.

Egeria, a Spanish nun, writes about it in her diary: "There is a fine garden and plenty of water."

In 557, Emperor Justinian built a magnificent church and surrounded it by a large wall to protect the monks. Their cells were built along the inner side of the wall.

When Mohammed came on the scene in the seventh century, the monastery was allowed to go on its course. A document signed by the Prophet Mohammed himself, the Actiname (Holy Testament), exempted the Christian monks of St. Catherine's from the usual taxes and military service and commanded that Muslims provide the community with every help.

The monastery now houses a mosque.

When the Byzantine Emperor Leo ordered all icons destroyed in the seventh century, St. Catherine's was so remote that the icons there survived. The magnificent collection of early icons - more than 2,000 of them - can still be seen there today.

When Napoleon conquered Egypt in 1798, he placed St. Catherine's under his protection.

The monastery library preserves one of the world's largest collections of early manuscripts in Greek, Coptic, Arabic, Armenian, Hebrew, Georgian and Syriac. There are more than 4,500 of them.

At present, an American monk is in charge of this library.

The Codex Sinaiticus, the oldest copy of the New Testament in existence, left the monastery in the 19th century. The monks lent it to a German scholar who gave it to the Russian emperor.

The Russians eventually sold it to the English, and it can now be seen at the British Museum.

About 30 monks live in the monastery and offer hospitality to the hardy souls who still make their way there through the desert.

The pilgrim rises early in the morning to climb the mountain of Moses (often referred to as God's trodden mountain). It takes about two hours of hard going. On reaching the top, one is cold, and it is dark.

But, then, the sun rises, and, as one watches, the world is suddenly bathed in magnificent light of purples, pinks, reds and greens. And, in the far distance, one can see to the promised land!

Is this the face of God?

It is a truly spiritual moment and one never to be forgotten. One has to climb the mountain for such an experience. But then one has to come down again.

Elizabeth McNamer is an assistant professor of religious studies at Rocky Mountain College.

The Faith & Values column appears regularly in the Saturday Life section of The Billings Gazette.

Pastors, ethicists, educators or other experts who would like to write a column about faith, ethics or values for the section, should contact: Susan Olp; Billings Gazette; 401 N. Broadway; Billings, MT 59101. Or call her at 657-1281; fax to her attention at 657-1208; or e-mail to solp@billingsgazette.com.

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